Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.